Friday, June 4, 2010
Installing your first set of new kitchen cabinets.
Tools you will need tape measure preferably 25' 1" blade, framing square, 2' level, 4' level,small speed square, hammer 13 oz., phillips screw driver, 2 quick release cabinet clamps, 7 1/4" skill saw, miter-box electric 10",2 cordless drills,bits and countersinks for screws, small compass, pencils, 1 helper preferably some one who has some interior finish-work experience minimum. Now first thing to do is label all the cabinets according to the plan you got from professional cabinet dealer if you tell them you will be installing the cabinets yourself they will help you with this. Inspect the cabinets as soon as possible for defects and report this by email back to dealer so new ones can be reordered.Next check the level of the floor and find the highest spot start as close to this pint as possible all other cabinets will be lower so you can shim them up.Starting in the corner will be best then work your way out. if there are spaces for refrigerators,dishwashers,stoves, exc. cut spacer blocks the size of the appliances recommended clearance the rough opening and tape in place . Leveling your cabinets as you go and fastening your cabinets together will take a little patience if you turn your shim parallel to the cabinet side when you install the next cabinet it will set on that shim also.Finding the studs or blocking in the wall will be critical you must locate each fastening point with a nail find the middle of the stud don't skip this step. Connecting your cabinets together will be simple if you use a cordless drill borrow a second one from your neighbor if possible. Use some star drive screws purchased from your cabinet dealer he will know exactly what you need there will be a bit in every box.Clamp each box to the next one and running your finger over the surface will allow you to flush the surfaces together squeezing the clamps to hold the cabinets in place. Pressure on the drill will be critical you will need to purchase a countersink bit especially designed for the screws you will be using. pre-drilling each hole to 80% of the screws length will keep the cabinets from sliding when the screws go in. Now level the face-frame after removing the door or drawers make sure to mark them or replace them before you move on to the next cabinet. Level the top of the cabinet and screw to wall with screws that penetrate int the studs at least 2".You will now need to mark a line on the wall appropriately 18" plus the thickness of the counter-top 3/4-2", 18 3/4 to 20". Using a 12' long piece of clear 1/2" plastic house filled with water called a water level mark each wall moving left to right preferably. pick out some straight 2x4's at the lumber yard fasten to wall with 3"screws. place a 1/2 sheet of 3/4 plywood on the top of the base cabinets. Build some 18-20" cabinet jacks and set them atop the plywood to catch the sides of your wall cabinets repeat the process for leveling the face-frames and screwing them together.Remember taking the shelves out and the doors off will make life a lot easer. This is the property of Magnus Shier of Edgewater Kitchens Charleston SC and intended to help our customers install their own cabinets to save money during these trying times. This is considered the intellectual property of Magnus Shier.Enjoy and give credit where credit is due.Thank you Magnus.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Monday, May 17, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Step 4 Preparing to Caulk Install painters tape 3/16 of an inch away from crack to be caulked on both sides. Fill the tub half way with water to hold tub down if necessary. Cut small angled hole in caulk tube nozzle appropriate to crack size. Tape tube in place to keep the tube from moving because the angle in the tube will help you caulk. Now lay down a continuous bead of caulk in one section at a time, using denatured alcohol lightly spray caulk and finger and wipe continuously from one end to the other. Repeat as needed to complete each section at a time until all areas are repair. After 10 min. or so remove tape pulling it of at an angle to prevent smearing on other surfaces. Step 5 Allow to Dry Use the Mfg. drying time but remember High humidity and cold temperatures will mean longer wait time.
Recaulking My Bathroom Tub
Step 1 Tool and Material List Painters tape, Sharp stiff plastic putty knife, 5 in one painters tool, Straight screw driver, Spray bottle of denatured alcohol, Drip-less caulk gun, clean cotton rags, paper towels, High quality silicone caulk. Metal putty knife, Razor knife, 3/4 inch wood chisel. Silicone caulk remover, Spray bottle with special mix of 60 % water 20% Clorox, and 10%Jomax. Step 2 Remove Old Caulk Never scrape tile or tub with metal tools unless absolutely necessary. Apply silicone caulk remove using chemical resistant gloves and cotton cloth. After recommended time scrape all old caulk from tub tile and crack using plastic putty knife if possible. Some situations may require 3/4 inch wood chisel, window scrapers with razor blade, 5in one painters tool to pull caulk from Step 3 Clean all surfaces to be caulked Spray the wall cavity with special mix if mold is a problem place floor fan in bathroom and dry affected area for 24 hours or until dry .Clean areas to be caulked with denatured alcohol and allow to dry 10 min.
Cleaning Granite and natural stone counter tops.
Edgewater Kitchens Cleaning and restoring natural stone with Dupont stone care products is a breeze with Edgewater Kitchens professional service technicians.Call Magnus at 843 364 3700 to schedual your counter-top cleaning and sealing with our bullet proof product. Charleston SC
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Flood Zone Research
Flood Zone Research
Building Residential structures in a flood Zone when you also have a zero property line fire code requirement to meet. Please check with a licensed architect with a structural engineer on staff to review you plans. Special precautions Treated lumber recommended with stainless steel fasteners and install moisture barrier if you are on a concrete slab. Treated plywood or approved fire proof gypsum with fiberglass coating for exterior walls,( No Paper). TYVEC or equivalent moisture barrier over treated plywood or fiberglass type x gypsum caulked smoke tight. Code may require coverage of overhang ,fascia,and possibly 5 feet up the rake of the roof. A good choice for siding would be cement based. Closed cell foam insulation approved by FEMA, interior high performance fiberglass coated gypsum will also be required on interior wall and type x to satisfy fire requirements if necessary. (No Paper). Hydrostatic vents ,tie-downs at garage doors and other areas as needed. Windows and doors must also meet new building code requirements for your area according to expected wind speed in your zone. Stay tuned for more helpful information. Please comment if this has been helpful. Magnus Shier
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